Sunday, January 22, 2012

Master Ashinaga Hasami Bonsai Shears 3163

!±8± Master Ashinaga Hasami Bonsai Shears 3163

Brand : Joshua Roth | Rate : | Price :
Post Date : Jan 22, 2012 12:32:47 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days


Master Grade Ashinaga 3163 The stainless steel construction of the 3163 Master grade Ashinaga will provide a lifetime of easy care and superior use. The blades are laminated with a center core of high carbon steel to keep a sharp edge longer than stainless would by itself. We are confident that this shear, as well as the stainless steel versions of our other bonsai tools, are the best quality available at any price. 2-1/4" blades, 8" overall Shears are the basic tool for bud trimming, thinning and defoliating bonsai, all crucial in the art of bonsai. Trimming young buds prevents branches that grow too long and promotes growth of short, small, fuller branches. Although there are many sizes and shapes, two would be sufficient to start. These shears have a generous opening between the handles, which helps prevent injuring other buds while you prune. These shears are designed to cut at all point. This gives you control over what you are cutting--allowing you to cut just that part which needs trimming leaving the surrounding foliage undamaged. The 8" Ashinaga shear with a 2-1/8" blade is a good basic bypass bud trimming shear for thinning and defoliating bonsai. Primary to the successful bonsai is cutting away unwanted portions of the tree. The most important tools for these tasks are shears and pruners. Pruning allows you to shorten a branch or the height of a tree, as well as removing entire unwanted branches. Shears are NOT meant to cut using a by-pass action. While cutters bite, the edges of biting tools usually overlap slightly--closing without contact, one over the other. The most basic bonsai starter set should include the tools needed to accomplish the basic pruning and shaping tasks.

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Monday, January 2, 2012

Pruning Conifers

!±8± Pruning Conifers

Conifers do not need extensive pruning and most are best left to assume their natural shape, with the occasional pruning of an overly long shoot. Occasionally, however, you may need to undertake more substantial pruning if the conifer starts to get too big for its position. Plants can be clipped annually with shears to keep them small and neat. Do not prune back to leafless brown stems because these will not re sprout. Cut back whole stems to restrict the size of ground hugging conifers, making the cut under a newer, shorter shoot that will hide it. Conifers that have become too overgrown should be removed.

Another problem that should be pruned out as soon as it occurs is reversion, all green growth on variegated forms. Use scatters or prunes to remove these vigorous shoot, otherwise they may dominate the more decorative foliage. Most conifers produce resinous sap that bleeds freely from the stems if they are cut while the tree is in active growth. Pruning is therefore best carried out from autumn to mid winter while the tree is dormant. Use sharp, clean pruning tools as blunt blades will snag the wood and may provide an entry point for disease.

Wear gloves and goggles and, if you are using power machinery, the protective clothing recommended. Once established, conifers will largely look after themselves. Mites and aphids can be problems on pines and spruces respectively, causing the needles to drop and producing unsightly care stems. Aphids are easy to control with insecticidal sprays, but mites are more persistent, you may wish to get in a professional to treat an affected specimen. Mites are particularly active during warm, dry years when conifers are under stress. You can help prevent outbreaks by watering conifers during a drought and spraying the foliage occasionally to increase air humidity.

Do this in the evening to avoid scorching the foliage on a sunny day. Most conifers prefer a position in full sun, but many will tolerate partial shade or being in deeper shade for just part of the day. They will not grow well in dense shade or waterlogged soil, however. If your soil is heavy, you could try draining it, improving the structure, by adding plenty of well rotted organic matter and grit before planting, or creating a special conifer raised bed. Many slow growing dwarf conifers also so well in containers. A newly planted tree or shrub needs to be watered well in order to become established. You need to mulch it with straw or garden compost to conserve the moisture in the soil.


Pruning Conifers

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